I make this last post in a Comfort Inn in Flagstaff, AZ expecting to be home mid-afternoon tomorrow. Our brief stay in San Quintin was pleasant though I was sorry I could not ride on a beach. We spoke with some dirt bike beach riders who said the recent storm made all of the access roads we would need to take too difficult for our larger dual sport bikes. A beach ride will be high on the list for the next trip.
The ride from San Quintin to Ensenada was only about 115 miles, enough ride to experience the cool fog and clouds coming off of the Pacific. Neither Dave nor I wish to return to Ensenada, a bustling, chaotic town that left us frazzled on the way out. We watched gorgeous, huge Pacific surf to our left as we rode about 15 miles to Mex 3 that would take us about ten more miles to our hotel for the night, El Meson del Vino. It sits in the Valle de Guadalupe, very beautiful wine country.
We chose some good wine there to bring home and had interesting conversation with Francisco who offered the wine tasting. We also felt the progressive tug of home. That, combined with ordered out pizza that was not up to Baja standards helped us leave the next morning before sunrise. On the way out our access road was block by a semi trailer that rolled off the turn of the main road. Thankfully there was another access point we had not known about and could be on our way. It reminded us that riding at night on Mexican highways is verboten.
We planned to ride the 50 miles to the border crossing and have breakfast but we got lost in Tecate. Road repair blocked the path on the GPS and I did not realize I should just go the wrong direction on a one way street as a detour. Over the next one half hour we rode around Tecate slowly making our way to the border but no longer thinking about breakfast or the excellent panderia I hoped to visit.
We rode up to a group of armed Mexican soldiers near some concrete bulkheads hoping to ask directions. Instead they just waved us through a narrow gap in the bulkheads allowing us to cut to the front of the line at US Customs. I declared the two bottles of wine, thankfully accepted by the agent since one bottle is supposed to be the max. We were both through the border in less than five minutes. Perhaps our country was anxious to have us back or Mexico was anxious to be rid of us. I don't care. We were back in the US of A. We knew how lucky we were. Now I would stop at stop signs again, drink the water and look forward to a salad for dinner.
Finding a place for breakfast required about a 30 mile ride in 39 degree temps. When we found an open Subway with good food and hot coffee I was already shivering. I yelled with joy. It would have been a great Subway commercial. Since we rode uneventfully to Yuma, trailered our bikes and now stay in Flagstaff where it will be 13 degrees when we wake up in the morning.
Dave and I have had a trip together we will remember for the rest of our lives. We have learned much about ourselves and each other and had a great time in the process. I have learned much more Spanish to be helpful when Joyce and I celebrate our 31st anniversary in Costa Rica in one month. Dave and I both look forward to coming back to the enchanting land of Baja with experience now to guide even greater adventures. I have learned how to share all of this with all of you by blogging and it has been my pleasure. My thanks to all of the fine people of Baja whose hospitality and kindness enriched our experience. I look forward now to seeing my wife, Joyce, my son, Creighton and home again. My Best Wishes to all of you.
Sunday, January 24, 2016
Friday, January 22, 2016
Watching a Hog Be Slaughtered and Dropping My Bike: Best Day Yet
Guerrero Negro is the Capitol of Baja Sur and is on Mountain Time. As we left this morning we crossed back into Baja Californina (Baja Norte) after only a few minutes ride. We passed beneath an an enormous Mexican flag and setting our clocks back to Pacific Time. We were especially excited today because after about 100 miles we would pass where we had joined Mex 1 ten days ago and ride into new country.
We had met a group of older adventure riders last night who mentioned a nice place to eat in Catavinia. We questioned this because Catavina is a very small town near the middle of the Baja Penninsula, not a likely tourist center. They were going to eat breakfast there but it would be two hours ride there. Neither Dave nor I were that "adventurous". However, by the time we got there it was lunch time and we decided to try to find this place.
Finding places on our trip has often been challenging for many reasons. The language barrier is one, of course. But signs are often very small or non-existent. Addresses are easy to get wrong because all of the nuances we have in our own address system exist in Mexico, it is just harder to sort out. We have found GPS plus dead reckoning plus asking people usually gets us there.
In Catavina we just used our gut (we were hungry). A nicely groomed gravel road turned off Mex 1 to St. Inez only about 1/4 of a mile east. The signs said restaurant and hotel. Adventure was calling. At the end of the road we found the complex in this picture:
On the right were six hotel units, clean, comfortable but primitive. The shaded area on the left was the restaurant serving breakfast and lunch. In front was a single picnic table as seating. We were the only clients.
Greeting us from behind the counter was a smiling older woman offering her menu verbally though it was hand written on a bulletin board as well. Dave ordered quesadillas and I tacos dorado with carne. Proceeding the main items came two Tecates and a bowl of fire roasted tomatoes. Our food was very flavorful and without question as authentic as it gets.
If that was not authentic enough, I finished eating and circled off to the far L to look around. I found most of an extended family watching a large hog be butchered. It was an important event being shared by several generations of this large Mexican family and one gawking gringo.
Call me a romantic, I don't care. I left with a sense that I had witnessed happy people poor in money but sharing a simpler, fuller life together rich in family, community and heritage.
We travelled up the interior of the Penninsula on Mex 1 through Parque National deal Deserito Central. Broad expanses of very strange but beautiful cactus forests spread in all directions. As beautiful as they are, we found on one stop how treacherous they can be. Dave reached out to touch one and receive many painful barbs in his hand. I walked from the forest with a huge cactus spike stuck firmly in the toe of my riding boots. On close inspection, most of these plants are very well armored and protected with defensive and aversive measures.
Our destination in San Quintin was the Hotel Jardine highly recommended by the group of bikers we had met last night. We did not know that several of the roads in the area had been badly damaged by the recent storm that had hit the northern Pacific coast of Baja. We found this out the hard way.
After following directions as best we could, we found ourselves riding west on gravel and dirt amongst farm fields. Soon the road became a single lane because of storm damage. I was going to stop to ask directions at a small store but was put off by a snarling dog (not good for business). Knowing we had gone too far, we turned around and a man in a large new pickup told us to turn right on the road we had just passed. We did this and found it a gauntlet of ruts, mud and puddles. After riding this about 200 yards we decided to turn around. Dave succeeded; I did not laying my bike down because I did not give it gas as I turned into the embankment. When in doubt, GIVE IT GAS.
No harm done but we were on the right road and had to push on. More gauntlet of mud, sand, deep ruts including riding in the rows of one of the farm fields finally got us there. Once again after a lot of work not only did we succeed to find the hotel but it was a gem amongst the farm fields with a very nice restaurant.
I am very grateful for the good luck we have had and the great people who have helped us have this Most Excellent adventure.
We had met a group of older adventure riders last night who mentioned a nice place to eat in Catavinia. We questioned this because Catavina is a very small town near the middle of the Baja Penninsula, not a likely tourist center. They were going to eat breakfast there but it would be two hours ride there. Neither Dave nor I were that "adventurous". However, by the time we got there it was lunch time and we decided to try to find this place.
Finding places on our trip has often been challenging for many reasons. The language barrier is one, of course. But signs are often very small or non-existent. Addresses are easy to get wrong because all of the nuances we have in our own address system exist in Mexico, it is just harder to sort out. We have found GPS plus dead reckoning plus asking people usually gets us there.
In Catavina we just used our gut (we were hungry). A nicely groomed gravel road turned off Mex 1 to St. Inez only about 1/4 of a mile east. The signs said restaurant and hotel. Adventure was calling. At the end of the road we found the complex in this picture:
On the right were six hotel units, clean, comfortable but primitive. The shaded area on the left was the restaurant serving breakfast and lunch. In front was a single picnic table as seating. We were the only clients.
Greeting us from behind the counter was a smiling older woman offering her menu verbally though it was hand written on a bulletin board as well. Dave ordered quesadillas and I tacos dorado with carne. Proceeding the main items came two Tecates and a bowl of fire roasted tomatoes. Our food was very flavorful and without question as authentic as it gets.
If that was not authentic enough, I finished eating and circled off to the far L to look around. I found most of an extended family watching a large hog be butchered. It was an important event being shared by several generations of this large Mexican family and one gawking gringo.
Call me a romantic, I don't care. I left with a sense that I had witnessed happy people poor in money but sharing a simpler, fuller life together rich in family, community and heritage.
We travelled up the interior of the Penninsula on Mex 1 through Parque National deal Deserito Central. Broad expanses of very strange but beautiful cactus forests spread in all directions. As beautiful as they are, we found on one stop how treacherous they can be. Dave reached out to touch one and receive many painful barbs in his hand. I walked from the forest with a huge cactus spike stuck firmly in the toe of my riding boots. On close inspection, most of these plants are very well armored and protected with defensive and aversive measures.
Our destination in San Quintin was the Hotel Jardine highly recommended by the group of bikers we had met last night. We did not know that several of the roads in the area had been badly damaged by the recent storm that had hit the northern Pacific coast of Baja. We found this out the hard way.
After following directions as best we could, we found ourselves riding west on gravel and dirt amongst farm fields. Soon the road became a single lane because of storm damage. I was going to stop to ask directions at a small store but was put off by a snarling dog (not good for business). Knowing we had gone too far, we turned around and a man in a large new pickup told us to turn right on the road we had just passed. We did this and found it a gauntlet of ruts, mud and puddles. After riding this about 200 yards we decided to turn around. Dave succeeded; I did not laying my bike down because I did not give it gas as I turned into the embankment. When in doubt, GIVE IT GAS.
No harm done but we were on the right road and had to push on. More gauntlet of mud, sand, deep ruts including riding in the rows of one of the farm fields finally got us there. Once again after a lot of work not only did we succeed to find the hotel but it was a gem amongst the farm fields with a very nice restaurant.
I am very grateful for the good luck we have had and the great people who have helped us have this Most Excellent adventure.
Thursday, January 21, 2016
Tracking Back
In GPS lingo, tracking back means going back by the same route you came with the help of GPS memory. We did this today starting from Loreto, traveling 260 miles, arriving about six hours later again at Guerrero Negro. We ate at the same small restaurant on the plaza of St. Ignacio, Victor's as we had about one week ago. However we were disappointed they were out of their distinguished chili rellenos. We saw many beautiful views of the Sea of Cortez , and, of course, cactus all the more interesting with the sun at our backs showing richer colors and contrasts.
The cacti thrive in this environment with endless variety of shape, no two alike I suspect, much like snowflakes. How can you prove that?
Yesterday I saw a roadrunner!! The bird well-remembered as a favorite cartoon character from my childhood but never seen by me before, ran across the road between Dave and I. And yes, it is very fast. About the size of a Stellar's Jay, it runs with its body not visibly rising or falling. The legs appear to rotate something like wheels to my naked eye. I was amazed that following it closely (still between Dave and I) was a coyote with a big nose. It ran across the road but splatted against the grill of one of the many semis that pass us. It peeled of the grill and was run over again by the wheels. Poor coyote. However, it soon got up and resumed the chase. Roadrunner- Wikipedia. I can get a little punchy on these long rides.
We had two military security checks today, one leaving Loreto and another leaving San Ignacio. The first one was uncomfortably thorough as they looked through my tool kit, food bag, and clothing bag. The soldiers are nice but must be very bored. I offered the soldiers one of my Vias as he found it and I explained what it was. I offered for him to take it but he politely refused.
It is not clear to me the distinction in jurisdiction between Mexican local police, federal police and the military. I assume they are working together but they seem to do the same job. I much prefer the American posse comitatus laws that prevents the military from being involved in the enforcement of domestic laws.
We rode in 89 degree temperatures for about two hours today. We make frequent stops for hydration but still found this uncomfortable. Please understand as I look at the header photo for this blog, I AM NOT COMPLAINING. I could be back at home shoveling snow. In fact, I know that is coming soon. For now, I am still looking for a sandy beach to get my bike out on.
The cacti thrive in this environment with endless variety of shape, no two alike I suspect, much like snowflakes. How can you prove that?
Yesterday I saw a roadrunner!! The bird well-remembered as a favorite cartoon character from my childhood but never seen by me before, ran across the road between Dave and I. And yes, it is very fast. About the size of a Stellar's Jay, it runs with its body not visibly rising or falling. The legs appear to rotate something like wheels to my naked eye. I was amazed that following it closely (still between Dave and I) was a coyote with a big nose. It ran across the road but splatted against the grill of one of the many semis that pass us. It peeled of the grill and was run over again by the wheels. Poor coyote. However, it soon got up and resumed the chase. Roadrunner- Wikipedia. I can get a little punchy on these long rides.
We had two military security checks today, one leaving Loreto and another leaving San Ignacio. The first one was uncomfortably thorough as they looked through my tool kit, food bag, and clothing bag. The soldiers are nice but must be very bored. I offered the soldiers one of my Vias as he found it and I explained what it was. I offered for him to take it but he politely refused.
It is not clear to me the distinction in jurisdiction between Mexican local police, federal police and the military. I assume they are working together but they seem to do the same job. I much prefer the American posse comitatus laws that prevents the military from being involved in the enforcement of domestic laws.
We rode in 89 degree temperatures for about two hours today. We make frequent stops for hydration but still found this uncomfortable. Please understand as I look at the header photo for this blog, I AM NOT COMPLAINING. I could be back at home shoveling snow. In fact, I know that is coming soon. For now, I am still looking for a sandy beach to get my bike out on.
Wednesday, January 20, 2016
We're Coming Home
As we left La Paz this morning headed back north, Dave commented by intercom that he now feels a stronger pull back home. I know what he means but we have a lot of riding and more adventure to come on this trip. I really want to ride my bike on a beach, hopefully with our panniers in a hotel. We may have a chance as we move now to the Pacific where the beaches are better for this. We want to eat of fish tacos from a street vendor. I still have to go swimming in the Pacific; I don't think snorkeling in a wet suit counts.
For those of you following this blog being awed and inspired by our skill, manliness and courage, I invite your comments while you still can. As my son, Creighton, often recognizes, I am very good at prompting compliments. Actually, you can make any comment you want.
The ride today from La Paz to Loreto was smooth and not too hot with the sun now at our backs. We passed back through Ciudad Constitucion and Ciudad Insurgentes but did not stop for lunch. Our second wonderful breakfast on the terrace held us well. We again struggled to find shaded places to water and rest our horses, I mean bikes. We chose a stop that forced us to park on a dirt road. We soon found out that road was an active service road used by large semis hauling produce. Thankfully the truck that came could bypass us and we had time to water and climb back in the saddle, I mean seat.
With the sun behind us the scenery was even more enchanting, especially as we finished coming north along the Sea of Cortez. We came to a turnout with lots of space to take in the beautiful expanse of the Sea of Cortez.
Commonly along roads in Baja we pass small memorials or shrines with a statue of the Our Lady of Guadalupe or the Virgin Mary Our Lady of Guadalupe. I do not know specific rituals but they do provide a commonly available focus for worship even in the more remote parts of Baja we have visited. Many are small, only two or three feet tall and wide. Others can be quite opulent and as large as a small home. The shrine in this picture at this turnout was above average size.
As we returned to Loreto we decided to try another hotel further from the city center, Coco's Cabanans. As in La Paz, the GPS got us close but finding the hidden place required asking directions and dead reckoning (seeing small signs) again. What we found was worth the effort.
After meeting the owner, Steve, and getting a tour of this surprisingly large, gorgeous, well constructed and kempt facility, we chose the cabana away from this beautiful pool but easy to park the bikes nearby with security. It also has separate bedrooms. Dave prefers to sleep in a refrigerator and there often are not enough blankets for me. Tonight we will both be comfortable.
We quickly unpacked, got our riding gear off and headed for that pool. After a long hot day of riding, the pleasure of a swim in a perfectly heated pool is hard to beat. We both would like to return to this place with our wives, Joyce and Marcia, someday.
As we turn homeward, I was thinking of the lyrics to one of my favorite songs from high school. I amend them hear for the trip:
"Rocket Man (I think it's going to be a long, long time . . . )" Elton John and Bernie Taupin
She packed my bags last night, pre-ride
Zero hour eight AM
And I'm going to be high as a kite by then
I miss Denver, I miss my wife
It's lonely out in Baja
On such a timeless ride
And I think it's going to be a long, long time
Till driving home brings me round again to find
I'm not the man they think I am at home
I'm a Moto man, Moto man
Burning out his fuse out here with Dave alone
Baja ain't the kind of place to raise your kids (actually it's very fine)
In fact it's hot as hell
And there's many there to raise them, if ya did
And all this Spanish, I don't understand
It's just my job, seven days a week
A Moto man, a Moto man
And I think it's going to be a long, long time . . .
For those of you following this blog being awed and inspired by our skill, manliness and courage, I invite your comments while you still can. As my son, Creighton, often recognizes, I am very good at prompting compliments. Actually, you can make any comment you want.
The ride today from La Paz to Loreto was smooth and not too hot with the sun now at our backs. We passed back through Ciudad Constitucion and Ciudad Insurgentes but did not stop for lunch. Our second wonderful breakfast on the terrace held us well. We again struggled to find shaded places to water and rest our horses, I mean bikes. We chose a stop that forced us to park on a dirt road. We soon found out that road was an active service road used by large semis hauling produce. Thankfully the truck that came could bypass us and we had time to water and climb back in the saddle, I mean seat.
With the sun behind us the scenery was even more enchanting, especially as we finished coming north along the Sea of Cortez. We came to a turnout with lots of space to take in the beautiful expanse of the Sea of Cortez.
Commonly along roads in Baja we pass small memorials or shrines with a statue of the Our Lady of Guadalupe or the Virgin Mary Our Lady of Guadalupe. I do not know specific rituals but they do provide a commonly available focus for worship even in the more remote parts of Baja we have visited. Many are small, only two or three feet tall and wide. Others can be quite opulent and as large as a small home. The shrine in this picture at this turnout was above average size.
As we returned to Loreto we decided to try another hotel further from the city center, Coco's Cabanans. As in La Paz, the GPS got us close but finding the hidden place required asking directions and dead reckoning (seeing small signs) again. What we found was worth the effort.
After meeting the owner, Steve, and getting a tour of this surprisingly large, gorgeous, well constructed and kempt facility, we chose the cabana away from this beautiful pool but easy to park the bikes nearby with security. It also has separate bedrooms. Dave prefers to sleep in a refrigerator and there often are not enough blankets for me. Tonight we will both be comfortable.
We quickly unpacked, got our riding gear off and headed for that pool. After a long hot day of riding, the pleasure of a swim in a perfectly heated pool is hard to beat. We both would like to return to this place with our wives, Joyce and Marcia, someday.
As we turn homeward, I was thinking of the lyrics to one of my favorite songs from high school. I amend them hear for the trip:
"Rocket Man (I think it's going to be a long, long time . . . )" Elton John and Bernie Taupin
She packed my bags last night, pre-ride
Zero hour eight AM
And I'm going to be high as a kite by then
I miss Denver, I miss my wife
It's lonely out in Baja
On such a timeless ride
And I think it's going to be a long, long time
Till driving home brings me round again to find
I'm not the man they think I am at home
I'm a Moto man, Moto man
Burning out his fuse out here with Dave alone
Baja ain't the kind of place to raise your kids (actually it's very fine)
In fact it's hot as hell
And there's many there to raise them, if ya did
And all this Spanish, I don't understand
It's just my job, seven days a week
A Moto man, a Moto man
And I think it's going to be a long, long time . . .
Tuesday, January 19, 2016
Whale Sharks to Humpback Whales
Dave and I started our day with huevos rancheros on the high terrace of our hotel overlooking the Bahia de La Paz. Beyond Dave's happy face you can see the large Marina Cortez.
Dave had some blog work and shopping to do. I would head out onto the Sea of Cortez with a tour guide, small boat captain, a family of four from Mercer Island, WA, and a remarkably tough and vivacious French couple in their later 70s by my estimate. I hope Joyce and I will grow up to be like them someday.
After some research, help from Joyce online 1800 miles away and the very helpful receptionist at the Hotel Mediterrean, I walked to the Mar y Adventura to begin a day of exploration on the Sea. Our first stop after about 20 minutes underway was outside the very thin Penninsula El Mogote that protects the bay. We snorkeled with whale sharks. I could not get pictures but may this link give you some idea of the awe I experienced being right next to these scary but benign creatures. Whale Shark OMG! It is important not to startle the huge animal causing it to swing its powerful tail into you. I was respectful and quiet.
A strong northly but warm headwind and rougher seas pounded us for the next 90 minutes as we made our way up the western shore of the Isla Espiritu Santos. On the way we had a rare treat this time of year to watch a humbback whale splashing its pectoral fin repeatedly in what appeared to be play.
Soon after this we saw a group of multiple spouts of water coming from a group of Common Dolphins. We were blessed to see about forty of them including calves moving together in a group hunting activity. Dolphins always seem to look and act happy (Flipper) and all of these seemed to swim with joy.
Take a look at the video I took of them
Our most northerly destination was the Isla Islotes, really just a large group of rocks but a protected sanctuary for sea lions. I donned my wet suit and gear to go over the side again hoping to swim with sea lions. Our guide, "Ben" tried valiantly to find one of the sea mammals swimming but we could only watch them basking on the rocks from about 90 feet away. Nevertheless, we saw many fish as we snorkeled the area.
On our way back we stopped for lunch on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world in one of the many protected inlets on the western shore of the Isla Espiritu Santos.
The island is protected closely as a national park and a very sensitive ecosystem. The beaches have very soft, white sand and the waer is warm with greens and blues that draw your attention.
The trip was another very memorable one in large part because of "Ben", our very careful and considerate guide. As with Roberto at San Ignacio, he really cares for the land and creatures he is showing us and for our better experience of them.
Dave had some blog work and shopping to do. I would head out onto the Sea of Cortez with a tour guide, small boat captain, a family of four from Mercer Island, WA, and a remarkably tough and vivacious French couple in their later 70s by my estimate. I hope Joyce and I will grow up to be like them someday.
After some research, help from Joyce online 1800 miles away and the very helpful receptionist at the Hotel Mediterrean, I walked to the Mar y Adventura to begin a day of exploration on the Sea. Our first stop after about 20 minutes underway was outside the very thin Penninsula El Mogote that protects the bay. We snorkeled with whale sharks. I could not get pictures but may this link give you some idea of the awe I experienced being right next to these scary but benign creatures. Whale Shark OMG! It is important not to startle the huge animal causing it to swing its powerful tail into you. I was respectful and quiet.
A strong northly but warm headwind and rougher seas pounded us for the next 90 minutes as we made our way up the western shore of the Isla Espiritu Santos. On the way we had a rare treat this time of year to watch a humbback whale splashing its pectoral fin repeatedly in what appeared to be play.
Take a look at the video I took of them
Our most northerly destination was the Isla Islotes, really just a large group of rocks but a protected sanctuary for sea lions. I donned my wet suit and gear to go over the side again hoping to swim with sea lions. Our guide, "Ben" tried valiantly to find one of the sea mammals swimming but we could only watch them basking on the rocks from about 90 feet away. Nevertheless, we saw many fish as we snorkeled the area.
On our way back we stopped for lunch on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world in one of the many protected inlets on the western shore of the Isla Espiritu Santos.
The island is protected closely as a national park and a very sensitive ecosystem. The beaches have very soft, white sand and the waer is warm with greens and blues that draw your attention.
The trip was another very memorable one in large part because of "Ben", our very careful and considerate guide. As with Roberto at San Ignacio, he really cares for the land and creatures he is showing us and for our better experience of them.
Monday, January 18, 2016
La Paz is a Really Cool Place. Was That A Gunshot?
As we prepared for this adventure, the stories about the drug violence and murder rates in La Paz left me with concern about even riding through this city of 227,000 near Cabo San Lucas, the famous tourist town on the tip of the Baja Penninsula, As we spoke with some researchers at Kuyima on the Laguna San Ignacio watching whales, my pre-conceptions softened and changed. The city is actually a cosmopolitan center of Mexican culture, the arts, higher education and medicine. We arrived today better prepared to enjoy the real La Paz.
We were the first and only customers at a Uruguayan restaurant for breakfast in Loreto this morning. I had mouth watering forest savory crepe with freshly brewed dark, rich coffee and Dave had an omelet with an empanada. With the help of our GPSs, we made our way out of el centro(downtown), filled our tanks with Pemex rojo (premium) gas and rode out on Mex 1.
Today we got a full dose of the warm weather we came here to enjoy. No clouds, blazing sun, and progressively more southern latitudes led to sunscreen, open vents in our riding clothes, and more frequent stops to drink water since I no longer have my wonderful KLIM water backpack. We recorded 89 degrees before the cool breezes that came as we descended from high desert to La Paz on the Sea of Cortez.
The first photo is one of our water stops. Most of today's ride looked like that. Dave is very hot in his black riding clothes and clearly not a happy camper. The second photo was of a long, finally successful search for shade. We stopped here in part because of all the colorful "flowers" blooming around the tree.
Some have described a trip to Baja as returning to the "Wild West". With the wonderful people, wonderful service, food and lodging that might be a bit of a stretch. However we have seen wide, very wild expanses of cacti with tall brown mountain ranges in the background. We have seen vultures circling and many carcasses of decaying animals with the striking stench. We have been on many rough, dusty roads some of with no names and no mapped destination. I might not be surprised to see Clint Eastwood ride up to us on horseback with a wide brimmed cowboy hat and a classic squint and frown at one of our water stops.
Descent into La Paz meant I would have another lesson in driving Mexican style. I have learned the reddish brown Alto signs so very common should be yellow since you are not intended to stop, just let the other guy at the intersection first go through. A red light requires a full stop until it turns green.
With our reservation pre-arranged, we followed the GPS path that was again wrong, but pretty close and very appreciated bringing us with a little dead reckoning and asking directions to the Hotel Mediterrean. As you can see from the picture it is a quaint, well kempt place nicely decorated with an excellent adjoining restaurant, the Zoe. And again, perhaps one of the most memorable events of this trip, they let us park our beloved motorcycles behind the locked gate in the courtyard only 30 feet from our room.
In the last photo you can see the tiny speck of silver from my helmet on the bed. Dave and I have been very lucky finding great, safe palaces to stay. My motorcycle has done everything I have asked and has only asked for more gas. It brings me joy that I am becoming a better rider.
Tomorrow, we explore La Paz. If I hear a loud bang I will just duck. I will imagine a modern day Clint Eastwood may be there to save the day!
We were the first and only customers at a Uruguayan restaurant for breakfast in Loreto this morning. I had mouth watering forest savory crepe with freshly brewed dark, rich coffee and Dave had an omelet with an empanada. With the help of our GPSs, we made our way out of el centro(downtown), filled our tanks with Pemex rojo (premium) gas and rode out on Mex 1.
Today we got a full dose of the warm weather we came here to enjoy. No clouds, blazing sun, and progressively more southern latitudes led to sunscreen, open vents in our riding clothes, and more frequent stops to drink water since I no longer have my wonderful KLIM water backpack. We recorded 89 degrees before the cool breezes that came as we descended from high desert to La Paz on the Sea of Cortez.
The first photo is one of our water stops. Most of today's ride looked like that. Dave is very hot in his black riding clothes and clearly not a happy camper. The second photo was of a long, finally successful search for shade. We stopped here in part because of all the colorful "flowers" blooming around the tree.
Some have described a trip to Baja as returning to the "Wild West". With the wonderful people, wonderful service, food and lodging that might be a bit of a stretch. However we have seen wide, very wild expanses of cacti with tall brown mountain ranges in the background. We have seen vultures circling and many carcasses of decaying animals with the striking stench. We have been on many rough, dusty roads some of with no names and no mapped destination. I might not be surprised to see Clint Eastwood ride up to us on horseback with a wide brimmed cowboy hat and a classic squint and frown at one of our water stops.
Descent into La Paz meant I would have another lesson in driving Mexican style. I have learned the reddish brown Alto signs so very common should be yellow since you are not intended to stop, just let the other guy at the intersection first go through. A red light requires a full stop until it turns green.
With our reservation pre-arranged, we followed the GPS path that was again wrong, but pretty close and very appreciated bringing us with a little dead reckoning and asking directions to the Hotel Mediterrean. As you can see from the picture it is a quaint, well kempt place nicely decorated with an excellent adjoining restaurant, the Zoe. And again, perhaps one of the most memorable events of this trip, they let us park our beloved motorcycles behind the locked gate in the courtyard only 30 feet from our room.
In the last photo you can see the tiny speck of silver from my helmet on the bed. Dave and I have been very lucky finding great, safe palaces to stay. My motorcycle has done everything I have asked and has only asked for more gas. It brings me joy that I am becoming a better rider.
Tomorrow, we explore La Paz. If I hear a loud bang I will just duck. I will imagine a modern day Clint Eastwood may be there to save the day!
Sunday, January 17, 2016
Go South Old Men
Our exploration further south continued today as we left San Ignacio to ride through Santa Rosalia, Mulege, past the Bahia Concepcion and on to Loreto. Last night we stayed in San Ignacio after leaving the the Laguna in the early afternoon. We turned into a place we had seen on the way in called the Ignacio Springs Bed and Breakfast. Thankfully it is a lull in their season and they had lots of space.
Terry and Gary are the Canadien expat owners of this calming and cool group of yurts of different sizes amongst palm trees along the Rio San Ignacio since 2001. Terry showed us to one of the large yurts, the Ka Canadien shown in the firs photo. The second photo shows the opulent interior. We were still luckier that a hose with running fresh water was available to wash the salt mist accumulation off of our bikes. Fate was still in our favor.
Terry and Gary are the Canadien expat owners of this calming and cool group of yurts of different sizes amongst palm trees along the Rio San Ignacio since 2001. Terry showed us to one of the large yurts, the Ka Canadien shown in the firs photo. The second photo shows the opulent interior. We were still luckier that a hose with running fresh water was available to wash the salt mist accumulation off of our bikes. Fate was still in our favor.
The next morning we were treated to a breakfast of eggs over easy, home cured ham and bacon, fresh fruit, and home baked bread in addition to interesting conversation with Terry. We learned that they had recoverred this beautiful B&B from two hurricanes and floods in 2009 and again in 2014. They clearly love their place but it clearly needed their love and effort to survive.
The ride today to Loreto took us 170 miles through the now familiar cactus and scrub terrain with high mountains in the background. We stopped on the Bahia Concepcion for lunch and to watch the Seahawks struggle valiantly but finally to lose. They are still a team rich with talent that will be a contender next year.
We had no reservations in Loreto. Riding our bikes around small city streets wears out fast. We stopped near the central plaza and found the Hotel Plaza Loreto. We have a nice room on the first floor and could bring our bikes into the lobby and park them right next to our rooms!
We will sleep more soundly knowing the bikes are safe. However, after making reservations, we found out there had been a fire of unknown cause outside the hotel a few days ago that destroyed three cars outside the hotel and part of the hotel. Of course Dave and I assumed it was related to the re-capture of El Chapo. If we have to leave in a hurry, we can ride our bikes right out the front lobby.
Saturday, January 16, 2016
A Visit to the Whale Nursery
We have been dark for the last two days after leaving Guerrero Negro. I suffered my first equipment failure as we started out. Somebody left my new water back pack on the back of my bike unattached allowing it to fall off at our hotel as I rode out. Sigh. One more lesson learned the hard way.
The ride was beautiful all through the Reserva de la Biosfera Desierto de Vizcaino. The weather was sunny and the road was in good condition. We turned off Mex 1 at San Ignacio to find a quaint, small town established on an oasis. The palm trees and other vegetation were dense. We found our way to the central plaza so common in small Mexican towns surrounded by restaurants, other businesses and a wonderful, restored cathedral completed in the later 1700's.
The ride was beautiful all through the Reserva de la Biosfera Desierto de Vizcaino. The weather was sunny and the road was in good condition. We turned off Mex 1 at San Ignacio to find a quaint, small town established on an oasis. The palm trees and other vegetation were dense. We found our way to the central plaza so common in small Mexican towns surrounded by restaurants, other businesses and a wonderful, restored cathedral completed in the later 1700's.
We sat at Victor's near our bikes just off the plaza shaded by several tbrees that must have been started with the Cathedral. Dave had Chili Rellenos with a delicious tomato sauce and I an equally delicious breaded fish dish. Everything comes with refried beans, flour tortillas unless they are in the main dish, and often rice. "Pan" is a gringo thing available on request only.
The cathedral was magical and awesome structure given its long history, the incredible resources and effort put into its construction and now maintence. I walked into the cathedral to hear a repeated scraping sound. I walked closer to the alter to find an older workman meticulously refinishing the interior of one of the thick wooden side doors on the left.
After lunch and getting directions we set out on the 58 km mostly paved route to Kuyima on the Laguna. After a mistaken right hand turn into the wrong property with a very angry barking dog at my left ankle, we hurried out and back on the correct dirt road as I expected a bite tear in my still intact riding pants. We suffered through a few miles of the worst washboard I have ever ridden to finally make it to the ecotourist facility Kuyima.
Kuyima is a ecotourist camp owned and operated by the local community over the last 29 years devoted to the preservation and study of whales and the entire ecosystem of the Laguna. That includes the small, economically poor human community that depends on the Laguna for fishing. Dave is standing at our Cabana Cardon in this next picture.
We watched whales for two morning sessions each about 2.5 hours in pangas holding about ten people. The experience was breathtaking and self-evident from these pictures.
That is Dave in the first taking the picture. In the second a big Gray whale "spy hops" apparently needing to see land for orientation, especially when tides are rapidly changing. The third photo today is of a mother and here newborn calf, very hard to see. The Laguna is one of three places Gray whales give birth, all in Baja. The last photo is the closest we got to one of these beautiful creatures that finally went under the boat. The anger and destruction portrayed in the movie "In the Heart of the Sea" was balanced by the gentle curiosity on display all around us by these creatures. Check out this link on the life cycle and history of Gray whales Gray Whale - Wikipedia
A sunset at Kuyima with some of the many birds in view.
We met many fine people with similar interests in and care for the Gray whales and the environment. We ate six fine meals prepared by the staff of Kuyima all of whom seemed to be joyful and excited about their work. The tour leader, Roberto was distinguished in his attention to each of us and especially to Dave and I. Though he was a tattooed Pittsburg Steelers fan, because he made our stay more memorable I have him on of the two Denver Broncos hats I had brought for gifts. When the Broncos beat the Steeler's tomorrow, he can take off his Steeler's jersey and put on the Orange hat.
Wednesday, January 13, 2016
We Met Coco!!
We left San Felipe southbound for Alfonsina's on the Bahia de Luis Gonzaga. We have been dark for the last two days because there is no internet or cell service in this remote location. We are making our way into central Baja.
The ride south was GORGEOUS. In this photo we are both grateful for the beauty as we look out onto the rough Sea of Cortez with whitecaps from the heavy wind. Our destination is the land you can see on the right in the extreme distance, Bahia de Luis Gonzaga.
Soon after taking this picture I heard a crack-thud as my helmet was blown off of my bike to the asphalt by the heavy wind. No serious harm, thank God.
What looks like a bullet proof vest in this photo is actually my passport money pouch.
As we made the turn to Alfonsina's it became clear it was more than a resort. It has a airfield for small planes and a long line of beach homes owned we believe by ex-pats. At the very end the red building is our destination. We had a cozy room on the first floor right next to the beach and the dining area. Though sunny, it is still winter and the breeze was up. I decided to delay my promised swim for another day. Instead I walked long on the beach finding many shells, seeing collected whale bones at many of the beach houses, and watching pelicans fishing.
That night we shared the resort with an adventure motorcycling tour group of ten riders and their support team. They were all really nice guys having a great time. I envied the support truck to carry luggage and mechanics to do repairs.
In preparing this trip, Dave and I read many reports, stories and blogs. One of the most common recommendations was to stop and meet Coco at COCOS CORNER. Today as we rode from Alfonsina's toward Mex 1, we added ourselves to the long list of those who have met him and admire him.
About ten years ago, soon after losing a leg by unclear cause, Coco retired from his work as a policeman in Ensanada to establish his home at an intersection of two rough dirt roads far from even basic services in central Baja. He cleared about four acres of land and built a meger house from re-purposed materials. Over the years as his collection of women's underwear decorating a sheltered meeting area grew so did his reputation for hospitality, tenacity, independence, and humor. Having lost his other leg not long ago, he now moves about in a wheelchair. On his land he has four pickup campers arranged to provide accomation for $5.00 per night.
We signed his book, expected of all new visitors, to include our name, birthdate, city of birth, where we lived now and what we were riding. Incredibly, he let us know of an 85 year old woman who had recently come through on a bicycle bound for distant destinations. We left as a steady stream of visitors from truck drivers to other motorcyclists came and went.
The ride south was GORGEOUS. In this photo we are both grateful for the beauty as we look out onto the rough Sea of Cortez with whitecaps from the heavy wind. Our destination is the land you can see on the right in the extreme distance, Bahia de Luis Gonzaga.
Soon after taking this picture I heard a crack-thud as my helmet was blown off of my bike to the asphalt by the heavy wind. No serious harm, thank God.
As we made the turn to Alfonsina's it became clear it was more than a resort. It has a airfield for small planes and a long line of beach homes owned we believe by ex-pats. At the very end the red building is our destination. We had a cozy room on the first floor right next to the beach and the dining area. Though sunny, it is still winter and the breeze was up. I decided to delay my promised swim for another day. Instead I walked long on the beach finding many shells, seeing collected whale bones at many of the beach houses, and watching pelicans fishing.
In preparing this trip, Dave and I read many reports, stories and blogs. One of the most common recommendations was to stop and meet Coco at COCOS CORNER. Today as we rode from Alfonsina's toward Mex 1, we added ourselves to the long list of those who have met him and admire him.
We signed his book, expected of all new visitors, to include our name, birthdate, city of birth, where we lived now and what we were riding. Incredibly, he let us know of an 85 year old woman who had recently come through on a bicycle bound for distant destinations. We left as a steady stream of visitors from truck drivers to other motorcyclists came and went.
Monday, January 11, 2016
The Sea of Cortez is Beautiful
Up well before the sun this morning, Dave and I were anxious to get our bikes of the trailer and get them on the road. It took about an hour of fiddling with our gear, topping up the tire pressure and getting into our helmets and boots to start the engines and go just a little after sunrise. Everything worked except my helmet intercom. That caused troubles later.
We found out the wrong way that you can ride straight through the border into Mexico without being stopped. However, you need your FMM short term immigration paperwork stamped and approved to be legal. We got our taste of the traffic struggle to come as we turned around to go back to the border.
My Spanish is OK but we still went to several desks before we found the correct one. The Mexican border personnel are very nice but they have some trouble with English and do not all understand the rules the same way. Thankfully the lines were short. We were back on the Mexicali Terror Road in less than an hour.
The path from the border crossing to Mex 5 through Mexicali seemed far more complicated and dangerous than it looked on the map. New road signs, lane marking conventions and heavy fast traffic led to about twenty minutes of terror. I was in the lead using a GPS that gave information often inconsistent with the signs and roads were on. Dodging merging vehicles and the occasional ferrel dog, trying to follow road signs I often did not understand and making sure my buddy behind me was still upright took everything I had. I don't know why the road had so many turns to get to the main road out of town, but we both made it out alive and with a clear sense we were no longer in the good old US of A.
It feels so good to be on the open road on a motorcycle especially after the hair ball we had just ridden through. The day was sunny in the mid 60's, our bikes were running great and we were feeling like we were getting the hang of this adventure motorcycle thing. Then up ahead, "Militar Inspecion". Dave waved me ahead with my better Spanish and gullibility. I opened everything up the young soldier with a stern look asked. Within ten minutes we were on our way.
We arrived in San Felipe a little after 2:00 PM. You can see Dave to the lower right near the iconic white arches the invite you into the town.
We easily found our way to the Chapala Hotel though it had no sign. I had to recognize it from a photo on the Internet. The owner was building cabinets for one of the rooms in the very secure parking area. He welcomed us, checked us in in less than five minutes then took 600 pesos for a clean, no frills room on the third floor. Hauling all of our gear up to the room was a chore as Dave reminded me to always get a room on the first floor.
After a lunch of fish and goberner tacos, we went to the gorgeous beach and beautiful water of the Sea of Cortez.
Tomorrow only a 130 km ride to Bahia de Luis Gonzaga. We are feeling the true spirit and life of the people of Baja.
We found out the wrong way that you can ride straight through the border into Mexico without being stopped. However, you need your FMM short term immigration paperwork stamped and approved to be legal. We got our taste of the traffic struggle to come as we turned around to go back to the border.
My Spanish is OK but we still went to several desks before we found the correct one. The Mexican border personnel are very nice but they have some trouble with English and do not all understand the rules the same way. Thankfully the lines were short. We were back on the Mexicali Terror Road in less than an hour.
The path from the border crossing to Mex 5 through Mexicali seemed far more complicated and dangerous than it looked on the map. New road signs, lane marking conventions and heavy fast traffic led to about twenty minutes of terror. I was in the lead using a GPS that gave information often inconsistent with the signs and roads were on. Dodging merging vehicles and the occasional ferrel dog, trying to follow road signs I often did not understand and making sure my buddy behind me was still upright took everything I had. I don't know why the road had so many turns to get to the main road out of town, but we both made it out alive and with a clear sense we were no longer in the good old US of A.
It feels so good to be on the open road on a motorcycle especially after the hair ball we had just ridden through. The day was sunny in the mid 60's, our bikes were running great and we were feeling like we were getting the hang of this adventure motorcycle thing. Then up ahead, "Militar Inspecion". Dave waved me ahead with my better Spanish and gullibility. I opened everything up the young soldier with a stern look asked. Within ten minutes we were on our way.
We arrived in San Felipe a little after 2:00 PM. You can see Dave to the lower right near the iconic white arches the invite you into the town.
After a lunch of fish and goberner tacos, we went to the gorgeous beach and beautiful water of the Sea of Cortez.
Tomorrow only a 130 km ride to Bahia de Luis Gonzaga. We are feeling the true spirit and life of the people of Baja.
Sunday, January 10, 2016
Another seven hours of travel today delivered us from high desert covered in deep snow to towering cacti, palm trees and temperatures in the high 60's. We made good time from Gallup, through Phoenix and finally to Yuma. We quickly checked in for storage of the jeep and trailer than hurried to the closest car wash to remove the layers of dirt from our car and the bikes. It felt great to see the colors of our bikes again and wash away all of the corrosive salts that collected on them from the previous day.
Tomorrow we cross the border at Mexicali to follow Mex 5 to San Felipe. Some of my apprehension about the coming challenges of our adventure was relieved when I called the Chapala Hotel in San Felipe to confirm our reservation for tomorrow night. My Spanish is getting better but when I asked her to "confirmar una reserva", she excitedly responded "Tracy!"
The weather will be great and we are well-prepared for a memorable adventure together. I look forward to sharing as much of the experiences Dave and I have with you in posts to come. Please follow Dave on his blog at www.littlemotoadventures.com.
Saturday, January 9, 2016
The Adventure Begins
I awoke to an eight degree morning after a fitful night's sleep. It had snowed about six inches the night before and I had worked hard to clear it completely from our 170 foot steep driveway. Would Dave be able to maneuver his trailer down the driveway or would I have to find a way to get my BMW F800GSA up the driveway for loading? That would be the last step before departure on our long anticipated and extensively planned trip to the Baja Penninsula. We would ride 2000 miles round trip from the border at Mexicali to Cabo San Lucas and back over three weeks.
Joyce had already helped manage my angst and fretting making sure I was prepared and packed. This morning she harvested Swiss Chard from our greenhouse and sautéed it to include it with delicious scrambled eggs and toast as we awaited Dave's arrival. He skillfully maneuvered the trailer down to my waiting bike and it was easily loaded. My gear was loaded into the jeep and Joyce gave us a fond farewell as we set off into the crisp but now sunny morning.
Over the next nine hours we traveled mostly clear roads through South Park, Salida, Pagosa Springs, Durango, Cortez and finally to Gallup, NM where we are spending the night. The recent snows blanketed much of the route until entering New Mexico with temperatures as cold as -9 degrees in parts of South Park. Because of the more extreme cold our bikes exposed on the trailer took on a thick brown icy patina from the splash of the rear tires of the jeep.
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